R2A Travel Series – Part 5: El Calafate and El Chaltén

El Calafate and El Chaltén

Thoroughly enjoying myself in El Chaltén

Located in Southern Patagonia, the towns of El Calafate and El Chaltén are the best-known starting points for glacier seekers and intrepid hikers. I’ve grouped them together because of the short distance (220~ Km) between them. They are, however, quite different in what sorts of activities and attractions they offer travelers.   Lets begin with the larger and more developed El Calafate, the major transport hub in the area.

Overview: El Calafate is the most popular place to go when you want to see Argentina’s beautiful glaciers up close. While the town itself is frankly a little boring, it’s the closest town to Los Glaciares National Park which includes the great Glaciar Perito Moreno.

When To Go: Spring, summer, and fall are all great times of year to visit El Calafate. You can technically go any time of year, but it can get very cold and miserable during the deep winter months of July and August.

A View of Perito Moreno from the Boat

How to Get There: El Calafate is far, far, far away from everything. Unless you include El Calafate as part of a larger Patagonia trip, it makes sense to fly there because a bus from Buenos Aires takes 40+ hours. Yikes! Aerolineas Argentinas offers many daily flights from Buenos Aires. There is a bus that goes from Bariloche to El Calafate that I’ve heard takes around 24 hours.

Recommended Trip Duration: You really only need one full day to experience that El Calafate has to offer. There is very little to do in the town itself and a full day tour of Glaciar Perito Moreno is all that’s really necessary. It’s a nice weekend trip, but if you stay there more than a few days, you’ll likely get bored (and run out of money because it’s a very expensive place).

Where to Stay: There are a bunch of hostels and hotels to stay at in the town of El Calafate. I stayed at MarcoPoloInn (hostel) which I enjoyed very much. A quick search on hostelworld.com turns up a plethora of options and prices.

What to See and Do

Tour of Perito Moreno Glacier: There are many tour operators, but most follow a basic format. Tours leave early in the morning as it takes at least 1.5 hours to reach the national park from El Calafate. Then, they’ll offer an optional boat ride up to the glacier which I HIGHLY recommend that you do. Finally, you’ll be given a couple hours to marvel at the incredible majesty of the Glaciar Perito Moreno before heading back in the evening to El Calafate.

Glacier Trek: I actually did this in El Chaltén and not El Calafate, but it is a readily available option. There are a bunch of tour companies that will supply you with all the necessary gear (crampons, snow pants etc.) and then take you on a guided tour of the nearby glaciers.

For more ideas, check out this nice list of activities over at TripAdvisor.

General Info:
The Town of El Calafate
Aerolineas Argentinas
Hostels in El Calafate

El Chaltén

Out of all of the places that I’ve traveled to in Argentina, El Chaltén sticks out as the most jaw-dropping and flat out amazing. Nestled right on the border with Chile, El Chaltén is one of the natural jewels of Argentina. The scenery is dominated by Cerro Torre and Cerro Fitz Roy which are a sight to behold and are easily visible from town.

Overview: El Chaltén is a hiker’s and nature enthusiast’s dream come true. The landscape is rugged and the jagged peaks of the Fitz Roy range dominate the surrounding area.   The main attractions are hiking, camping, and glacier-trekking. There isn’t much infrastructure in the town (I think there is one supermarket) due to the fact that the town was founded in 1985 to secure an Argentine foothold on the disputed border with Chile. Make sure to bring extra cash with you to El Chaltén because ATM access is spotty at best.

When to Go: The town empties out during the winter (June-September), but is fine to visit any other time of year. I went in December and it was absolutely perfect. It never gets too hot, even in summer, but high season for tourism is in January and February which means less hostel availability and more hassle getting to and from El Chaltén.  There are places to rent warm clothing like jackets and gloves in town.

How to Get There: If you don’t have a car, there are multiple daily buses from El Calafate to El Chaltén. The trip takes about 3-4 hours and you’ll get to see some incredible desert landscapes along the way. Most buses leave early in the morning so make sure to check the schedule!

Recommended Trip Duration: There’s at least 3 full days worth of things to do in El Chaltén and you could probably spend up to 5 or 6 without getting bored or repeating anything.

Where to Stay: There are a bunch of hostels in El Chaltén and camping options are also available. The hostels are relatively expensive, but won’t break the bank. Camping is a very attractive option because there is a campground a couple of hours hike up towards Cerro Fitz Roy that is very cheap, if not free. You can also rent camping gear in both El Calafate and El Chaltén.

What to See and Do:

Hiking: My favorite part about El Chaltén is the easy access that you have to multiple hiking trails that are challenging while still remaining accessible for the casual hiker. I recommend getting up bright and early and taking your time on the trails. You don’t need hiking equipment or shoes, but it’s recommended.

Check out the map above to see the different trails. I couldn’t find a good map in English, but at least it gives you an idea. My personal favorite was the B-C-D hike up to Lago de los Trés at the base of Cerro Fitz Roy!

Glacier Trekking: You’ll be able to set up guided glacier treks once you arrive in the town and they have equipment to rent. My route was the A-K trail and when I finally got to actually walk on a glacier, I was not disappointed! I can say with all certainty that there is a breathtaking shade of blue that you will only find in glacial ice.  Some of the tours include a little ice-climbing as well which is a fun experience for the uninitiated.

More Info:
Guia Chalten
List of Suggested Hikes in El Chaltén
HostelWorld
El Chaltén Map

All Photos by Nick Hadsel-Mares

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Buenos Aires Tango Festival – August 13-31, 2010

The 2010 Buenos Aires tango festival is the celebration of the most famous dance in Argentina.  Dancers, musicians, artists, and the adoring public converge on Buenos Aires during this celebration of tango history and culture.  Whether you want to try tango dancing tango for the first time or want to see the best dancers the world has to offer, the 2010 Buenos Aires Tango festival has something for everyone!

This is the tango festival to end all tango festivals.  What’s more, all shows and events are free to the public!

Daily Schedule
Ticket Information
Photo Credit

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R2A Activity: Milonga at the Konex

Last week we went to the CC Konex to a Milonga where we danced the night away!  There weren’t very many of us so we had almost the entire dance floor to ourselves.  Check out the pictures!

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R2A Activity: August Group Dinner 2010

Pizza?  Check.  Onda?  Check.

It was really cold during the dinner so we took the party inside for the first time in a long time!  The pizzas look so good, I can hardly wait for next month!  Yum!

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María’s Mate Tasting Session

Have you ever wondered how to properly prepare mate?   Just how many ways are there??

María, a coordinator at Road2Argentina, recently sat down during our weekly mate and medialunas  session to explain all of the quirky customs that come along with drinking mate.

Click the pictures to embiggen!

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R2A Travel Series – Part 4: Mendoza

Mendoza is probably my favorite place, apart from Buenos Aires, to visit in Argentina. This is partly because I enjoy a nice glass of wine and partly because the scenery is absolutely beautiful.

Overview: The city of Mendoza is located in the Cuyo region of Argentina, nestled in the foothills of the Andes mountains. The region is known for its vineyards, excellent-quality wine, and adventure sports. The province of Mendoza is also where you will find Mount Aconcagua, the tallest mountain in the western hemisphere.

When to Go: Any time of the year is recommendable. The summer time is great for outdoor sports such as river rafting and horseback riding and the winter is ski season. Fall and spring have milder temperatures and are ideal for visiting wineries and strolling around town.

How to Get there: If you are on a budget, it’s a no-brainer to take an overnight bus (micro or omnibus in Argentine Spanish). You can buy your bus tickets at the Retiro station in Buenos Aires or online (I’ll recommend a site at the end). An overnight bus ride will take about 14 hours from Buenos Aires. That might sound like a lot but they’ll show a movie or two, feed you dinner and breakfast and before you know it you awake at your destination. Otherwise, you can fly into the Fransisco Gabrielli – El Plumero, airport.

Recommended Trip Duration: If you’ve got 4 days, you can get a lot done in Mendoza. If you are studying Spanish in Buenos Aires, then escaping for a long weekend would also work. You should plan on saving a whole day to go on a winery tour and at least a half day to dedicate to wandering around the city of Mendoza. Excursions such as river rafting and to the Aconcagua are also highly recommended.

What to See and Do

Wine Tour: An absolute must. Even if you aren’t a big wine drinker, you should still make it out to see some vineyards. They provide a great combination of beautiful scenery and insight into the wine-making process. If you like life on the edge, then go for the wine tour on a bike option. It’s easy to set up a tour once you are in town, directly from your hostel or hotel.

River Rafting and Horseback Riding: These can both be done as half-day excursions, leaving the late afternoon and evening to explore the city of Mendoza. As with the wine tours, you can arrange and reserve your rafting or riding expedition directly from your hostel or hotel.

Mountain Excursion: There are a few different providers that offer day excursions into the Andes. I really like this option because you can arrange a fun day excursion without much thought or effort. In most cases, the van will pick you up at your hotel or hostel and drive you and a group out into the Andes. The excursion includes a view of Aconcagua and a walk through the Puente del Inca (a naturally-formed land bridge over hot springs).

Skiing: For beginner and intermediate skiers or for those without much time, I recommend Penitentes, a ski resort located 180 km from the city of Mendoza. This is accessible on a day trip from Mendoza city or for a couple-night stay. For more serious skiers or for those willing to invest some serious cash, Las Leñas is a must. Las Leñas is located 450 km from the city of Mendoza and is considered one of the most exclusive ski resorts in Argentina.

Useful links

Bus Tickets to Mendoza

Hostel Lagares – Good location and friendly staff.

Bikes and Wines – Winery tours on bikes.

Photos by Nick Hadsel-Mares and Katie Dunlop

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R2A Travel Series – Part 3: Bariloche

Travel Destination: Bariloche

If you’re looking for an Argentine vacation destination that offers plenty to do year-round, look no further than Bariloche.  Perhaps best known for its winter ski slopes, Bariloche is situated in the heart of Argentina’s lake region, and also serves as a great summer destination.

Overview: If you want to pick a good starting point from which to explore Patagonia, Bariloche is it.  The town itself is quite beautiful and sits perched on a rather steep bank down to the shores of Lake Nahuel Huapi.  Options for outdoor sports include hiking, biking, climbing, rafting, and of course, skiing.

When to Go: Bariloche is a destination that attracts travelers year-round and for many different reasons.  Just about everything that you’ll do in Patagonia will be outside so plan accordingly.  It can get to be downright freezing in the winter but summer temperatures are pleasant and warm. Essentially, what you want to do in Bariloche will dictate when you should go.  It’s a fantastic place no matter what time of year you go.

How to Get There: It’s very easy to arrange for transportation from Buenos Aires to Bariloche.  Most people who study abroad in Buenos Aires make their way down South at some point.   Overnight buses from Buenos Aires leave about every half hour in the evenings.  The ride is quite long, however, clocking in at around 22 hours.  From the bus terminal in Bariloche, you can catch local buses (10,20,21) into the center of town or hop in a taxi to your destination.

If time is short, consider flying LAN or Aerolineas Argentinas.  There are several daily flights by both companies though prices will run you roughly double what the bus costs.

Recommended Trip Duration: Because of its distance from Buenos Aires, it makes sense to spend at least 5-7 days in Bariloche when you go.  If you’re going to ski, then you’ll have no trouble spending 4-5 days on the mountain and then doing a day or two of other activities.  During the Spring and Summer, a week will allow you to also visit nearby towns like El Bolsón and Junín de los Andes which are both highly recommended.

What to See and Do:

Winter Sports: Every year, skiers and snowboarders flock to Bariloche to ski Cerro Catedral, one of the biggest ski resorts in Argentina.  There are many hostels in Bariloche that cater to skiers and it’s very easy to rent equipment and arrange for transport up to the mountain.  I recommend Marco Polo Inn because of its helpful staff and free dinner.

Outdoor Activites: The Bariloche area contains some of Argentina’s best hiking, rafting, horseback riding, and fishing.  There are many tour operators, but a good guidebook and decent Spanish will allow you to do many of the activities at a much cheaper price.

Lake District Tours: While there are scores of different tour options, I personally recommend renting a car in Bariloche for 3-5 days if you are not there to ski.  There are many different rental places and if you split the cost amongst a few friends, it becomes pretty economical.   This allows you to see what you want to see at your own pace and makes the experience more enjoyable.  Make sure to spend a day doing the “Ruta de los Siete Lagos”.

Neighboring Towns to Visit:
El Bolsón:  This sleepy (read: hippy) little town is located about 2.5 hours south of Buenos Aires and is one of the beer centers of Argentina due to the fact that most of Argentina’s hops are grown in the vicinity.  There are some nice hikes, rafting on the Rio Azul, and a great market known for exquisite homemade jams.

Villa Langostura:  Widely regarded as one of the prettiest towns in Argentina, Villa Langostura begs for a short visit at the least.

San Martin de los Andes:  San Martin is home to a smaller ski resort and also boasts a casino and some hiking.  It’s nice for a stop, but not necessarily the most economical or exciting place to stay in the Bariloche Area.

Junín de los Andes:  Located near the base of Volcan Lanín, Junín is probably best known for its trout fishing.  The season runs from mid-November through May.  Check out the “Via Christi Park Walk” in the hills surrounding Junín to see a mix of Christian beliefs and Mapuche culture in the form of provocative sculptures.

Sign up for volunteer work in Junín de los Andes through the Road2Argentina website!

Useful Links:

Bus Schedules and Tickets
Airlines: LAN, Aerolineas Argentinas
Cerro Catedral Ski Resort
Car Rentals

All Photos by Nick Hadsel-Mares

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Huellas del Sur tour: Immigration, Tango and Football

First stop: La Boca neighborhood

Then to San Telmo by bus 

And we finished the tour in Puerto Madero

A great Saturday afternoon!

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R2A Travel Series – Part 2: Day Trips

Travel Destination:  Province of Buenos Aires

Overview: Argentina is a geographically large country, and as such it can take a significant amount of time to travel to some of its many top destinations.  As great as these longer trips are, sometimes you might find yourself with an urge to travel on a weekend and are not sure where you can reasonably travel in just 1 or 2 days!  Here are some day-trip or weekend-trip ideas for when you are studying or perhaps interning in Buenos Aires and only have Saturday and Sunday free!

San Antonio de Areco


San Antonio de Areco (photo)

This is a small town located about a 2 hours’ drive away from Buenos Aires (113 kilometers) and is perfect for a short day trip getaway from the hustle and bustle of the city.  The idea of a trip to San Antonio de Areco is not to pack as many activities as you can into a day, but rather to escape the city for a relaxing day of peace and quiet, as well as a taste of small-town Argentina.

When to go:  San Antonio de Areco is ideal for a nice weather day, particularly in the spring or fall, as there are many outdoor activities to enjoy.

What to do:
* Bike riding
* Horseback riding
* Guided tour of the town
* Rural tourism (Estancias)
* Lunch in the park or in a boutique café/restaurant

How to get there:  By car or by coach.  By coach, the bus will leave from the Retiro bus station.  Some coach companies that offer service to San Antonio de Areco are:

Nueva Chevallier:  http://www.nuevachevallier.com/home.html
Pullman General Belgrano:  http://www.gralbelgrano.com.ar/

San Pedro (photo)

Another small town in the northern part of the province of Buenos Aires, San Pedro, is also accessible by car or by coach.  Less-touristed, but nevertheless a fine example of small-town Argentina.

Luján
Lujan (photo)

Larger than San Antonio de Areco and San Pedro, Luján is still quite a small city, and the points of interest can be easily seen in a short day trip.  Known for its Basílica in honor of the Virgen de Luján, the patron saint of Argentina, Luján is a typical site of pilgrimage for residents of Buenos Aires.  In fact, many make the trip walking from Buenos Aires all the way to Luján (about 68 kilometers).    Although it is a largely Catholic destination, it is also worth the trip for the spectacular architecture of the church.

When to go:  On a warm sunny day, in order to enjoy the outdoors and the architecture.

What to do:
* See the Basílica Nacional
* In font of the Basílica is the central plaza, lined with stands selling souvenirs, generally religious in nature
* Have lunch at a typical parrilla near the Basílica
* Enrique Udaondo museum, exhibits about colonial life in Luján

How to get there: By car or by city bus number 57 (ONCE-LUJÁN, which leaves from Once, or PALERMO-LUJÁN-MERCEDES, which leaves from Plaza Italia).  It is also accessible by train Sarmiento line, leaving from Once (not recommended – must change trains).

La Plata
La Plata (photo)

Capital city of the Province of Buenos Aires, La Plata is located about 50 kilometers south of the city of Buenos Aires and has roughly half a million inhabitants.  Unlike the city of Buenos Aires, La Plata is based on a very structured planning, typical of cities of its time (founded in the late 19th century).  Streets form diagonal blocks, each numbered instead of named, facilitating one’s ability to find one’s own way around the city.

When to go:  Anytime, although it may be best appreciated in nicer weather.

What to do:
* See the Plaza Moreno, the principal square of the city, where the Cathedral “Inmaculada Concepción” and the “Palacio Municipal” are located
* Cultural Centers
* Museum of Natural Sciences. Latin American Contemporary Art Museum, and many more
* University of La Plata
* Paseo del Bosque (largest green space in the city) and the República de los Niños theme park, supposedly an inspiration previous to the construction of Disneyland

How to get there:  By car or by coach leaving from the Retiro train station in Buenos Aires:

Costera Metropolitana:  http://www.costerametropolitana.com/
Grupo Plaza:  http://www.grupoplaza.com.ar/

La Plata is also accessible by train, but this is not recommended unless on a very tight budget.

Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay

Colonia is a historical colonial-style town located just across the Río de la Plata from Buenos Aires and is another example of a great day-trip (not to mention a fun way to renew your Argentine tourist visa to stay longer than 90 days!)  More about this UNESCO world heritage site coming up later on in the Road2Argentina travel series!

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Road2Argentina Promotions

From The Road2Argentina Blog


Free Wine Tasting Course
Sign up for any Road2Argentina program including housing to begin in August or September 2010 and receive a free wine tasting course!  The course includes 4 weekly classes, with a duration of 2 hours each class.  During the course you will learn about different types of wine (white, red, rosé, and sparkling) as well as important Spanish vocabulary for wine tasting and buying, and also how to combine different types of wines with different foods!  The course also includes a free souvenir wine glass!

For more details about our wine tasting course, please visit our Wine Tasting page!

Other promotions:
As always, friends who sign up together both receive a 5% discount off their entire program.

All semester programs in 2011 include a 3-day, 2-night trip to Mendoza, including round-trip bus tickets, hotel-stay in Mendoza, and daily excursions.

For further information on our current promotions, please visit our Promotions Page!

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